| To get to this area, park in the trailhead parking
lot (for the Pacific Crest Trail) just east of the Boreal
ski area. Hike south on the trail about twenty minutes. This is a 20 minute hike if you walk fairly quickly. Someone slower than me (and with shorter legs) might take as long as 30 minutes. - kt You will emerge from the woods and and the trail begins a short climb. To your left will be large open rocky slabs. 100 yds off the trail you have views of Donner Lake and "lovely" Hwy 80. About 100 feet to the right of the trail is an 80' high by 60' wide slab with a white dike diagonaling up, right to left. At the top of the slab is a juniper. This section of rock is over 100 feet tall, but the climbing in the first 80 feet. - kt
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MOTHERS AND FATHERS 5.7 Val LiCon, Wendy Broadhead, Tom Grey, Lynne Zonge. This is the easy looking crack which diagonals up and right, and then switchbacks on itself up to the top. A rating of 5.7 seems to be about right. The upper half of the climb is still fairly dirty and some of the moves felt a little harder than 5.7 - kt |
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| OLD GUYS WITH THE SHAKES 5.10b Val LiCon, Phil Marshall This climb starts in roughly the same spot as MAF, except it goes straight up past two bolts, and on to the top. Mike felt that 5.10b was pretty close. Charlie thought that it might be just a tad harder. - kt |
Mike Luster |
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| KINDA LICHEN IT 5.10a/b Val LiCon, Wendy Broadhead Start just left of Radical Right and face climb past two bolts. Stay on the face and continue straight up to protect behind shallow loose flakes, Climb the crystal formation with the beautiful green lichens to the top. This one probably tends towards the 5.10b range. However, I don't recommend this climb for a lead. The bolts are too far off the ground and the flakes wouldn't hold a leader fall. - kt |
RADICAL RIGHT 5.9+? Val LiCon, Phil Marshall This is the obvious right leaning crack, just left of center on the slab. Climb straight up to where the crack crosses the white dike, and follow crack to the top. The crux is near the middle and is a solid 5.9. This crack does not pro very well and should be treated more like a face climb. - kt |
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| There is presently one 3/8 x 3" bolt at the top. It can be backed up with other pro in a crack. Although all four climbs can use this anchor it would probably be a little awkward to top rope all of them from there. The walkoff is short but circuitous. I suggest a second bolt for an easy rap. One rope is all that is needed for this area. | |||||||||||
| The four climbs make for an enjoyable afternoon. It
is a pleasant hike into and out of the area. The bottom
part of the climbs are hidden from the trail. You will
not be waiting in line here! The lounging at the bottom
is comfortable and the climbs are challenging for most
intermediate level climbers. One final note: All of these climbs have been climbed only once. The ratings of course are just a guess. I would appreciate any feedback from you or anyone else that finds time to go to this spot. Three of us (Charlie Pottey, Mike Luster and myself) climbed here the afternoon of 9/20/96, confirming the ratings as noted above. - kt |
Charlie Pottey |
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I want to thank |
X-Sender: Pkayak@mail.greatbasin.net Date: Fri, 13 Sep 1996 17:37:47 -0700 To: kturner@greatbasin.net From: val@kayak.reno.nv.us (Val LiCon) |
for the initial information for this area. |
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| If you would like your own site listed in any of my bookmark files (and its not already there) you may email your URLs to me. I would especially appreciate receiving route and area information, topos, pictures and suggestions. | ||
| A complete INDEX for this site. |
