Donner Summit - North - The Lower Walls

Half Way - Left Half

Half Way - Right Half

Northern Wall

Central Wall

The Central Wall can be reached by descending down the 3rd class gully.

Central Wall - Left and Right

There are several bolted routes on the large wall on the left side. Most of these routes use older style bolts. A few newer style bolts have been added. Several of these routes will also take small to medium size cams.

The cracks in the right wall appear to protect well with medium to small cams.

On the right side are several obvious routes "Y-Knot" and "Deceive Me Not" (the right branch of the "Y"). There is a well bolted route just to the left of the "Y" starting in the scaloped area at the bottom.

Date: Wed, 09 Oct 96 23:40:39 0700
From: val@kayak.greatbasin.com
To: kturner@greatbasin.net

Hi again Keith,
Been visiting that page of yours again and saw the addition of photos to northern area. Here's some more recent info. I went up and cleaned out the right side of the Y-Not crack last Saturday the 5th. On Sunday the 6th Wendy Broadhead and I tried to get up the thing. It was deceptively difficult. It did not get led in anything close to what I consider good style! The upper part of the crack is deceptive. While the lower part does take medium cams the upper third of the climb is less than finger thin and took the two or three smallest sized aliens. All pro was bomber.

With the proximity of the climbs on the left wall I doubt we were the first to try this climb, although from the cleaning I did we might have been the first in 10 to 20 years. Have a go at it. I am curious as to how hard it really is. We were both fairly trashed. The day ended and the words "Looks are deceiving" came to both of us.

I have done the farthest right route on the left wall. Seemed to be 5.10ish with some runouts. I think it had four old bolts and a few other odds and ends.

Not a bad area for those of us who don't mind the hike, is it!

Get the climbing while its good. With luck we'll be skiing soon.

On the far right side are a couple easier routes within a triangular section. Up the center is "Gardener's Nightmare", a moss filled route that starts off at 5.5 and finishes at 5.6 through some broken blocks. The left side of the triangle is "Two Bushes Too Many" with a 5.7/8 crux while avoiding the two bushes in the middle. Just past the top of the triangle is mixed 4th class climbing.

And this from Val:

Keith, It appears my partner, Phil, sent you message re. the new anchor on Green Crystals & Moss. I have some new route info for you in regards to the "Y-Knot" wall.

Tight Eggs, 5.10a/b Done with Phill Marshall, This is the bolted face to the left of the Y-Knot crack. 5 bolts. A little run out off the deck and after the last bolt.

Onan the Barbarian, 5.10b. about 15-20 yds right of Y-Knot is a vertical crack/seem up to a prominant hole. Two bolts protect to the hole and one more after the hole. From the last bolt climb up right to the bottom of a left leaning thin crack. Small camms or small to mid size stoppers protect the crack. The most solid pro in the crack is the final piece, a 2 or 2 1/2 Friend.

Pocket Pool 5/10b with Brad Hart and Tom Panyon. I think this climb takes off from what you refer to as Two Bushes too Many???.. about 10 yds right of Onan climb the bottom of the vertical crack. Then take the thin crack which branches to the left, and follow it to the top. Pro is difficult in this climb.

All these routes were done from ground up so we placed pro where we could. Thus the runouts.

Val LiCon

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A complete INDEX for this site.

Central Wall The Central Wall can be reached by descending down the 3rd class gully.
Central Wall - Left and Right
There are several bolted routes on the large wall on the left side. Most of these routes use older style bolts. A few newer style bolts have been added. Several of these routes will also take small to medium size cams. The cracks in the right wall appear to protect well with medium to small cams.	On the right side are several obvious routes "Y-Knot" and "Deceive Me Not" (the right branch of the "Y"). There is a well bolted route just to the left of the "Y" starting in the scaloped area at the bottom.
Date: Wed, 09 Oct 96 23:40:39 0700 From: val@kayak.greatbasin.com To: kturner@greatbasin.net Hi again Keith, Been visiting that page of yours again and saw the addition of photos to northern area. Here's some more recent info. I went up and cleaned out the right side of the Y-Not crack last Saturday the 5th. On Sunday the 6th Wendy Broadhead and I tried to get up the thing. It was deceptively difficult. It did not get led in anything close to what I consider good style! The upper part of the crack is deceptive. While the lower part does take medium cams the upper third of the climb is less than finger thin and took the two or three smallest sized aliens. All pro was bomber. With the proximity of the climbs on the left wall I doubt we were the first to try this climb, although from the cleaning I did we might have been the first in 10 to 20 years. Have a go at it. I am curious as to how hard it really is. We were both fairly trashed. The day ended and the words "Looks are deceiving" came to both of us. I have done the farthest right route on the left wall. Seemed to be 5.10ish with some runouts. I think it had four old bolts and a few other odds and ends. Not a bad area for those of us who don't mind the hike, is it! Get the climbing while its good. With luck we'll be skiing soon.	On the far right side are a couple easier routes within a triangular section. Up the center is "Gardener's Nightmare", a moss filled route that starts off at 5.5 and finishes at 5.6 through some broken blocks. The left side of the triangle is "Two Bushes Too Many" with a 5.7/8 crux while avoiding the two bushes in the middle. Just past the top of the triangle is mixed 4th class climbing. And this from Val: Keith, It appears my partner, Phil, sent you message re. the new anchor on Green Crystals & Moss. I have some new route info for you in regards to the "Y-Knot" wall. Tight Eggs, 5.10a/b Done with Phill Marshall, This is the bolted face to the left of the Y-Knot crack. 5 bolts. A little run out off the deck and after the last bolt. Onan the Barbarian, 5.10b. about 15-20 yds right of Y-Knot is a vertical crack/seem up to a prominant hole. Two bolts protect to the hole and one more after the hole. From the last bolt climb up right to the bottom of a left leaning thin crack. Small camms or small to mid size stoppers protect the crack. The most solid pro in the crack is the final piece, a 2 or 2 1/2 Friend. Pocket Pool 5/10b with Brad Hart and Tom Panyon. I think this climb takes off from what you refer to as Two Bushes too Many???.. about 10 yds right of Onan climb the bottom of the vertical crack. Then take the thin crack which branches to the left, and follow it to the top. Pro is difficult in this climb. All these routes were done from ground up so we placed pro where we could. Thus the runouts. Val LiCon

Donner Summit - North - The Lower Walls

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