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Bear Valley, CAThe following information has been provided by |
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Welcome to Bear Valley rock climbing. This area requires a pioneering spirit of adventure! While there are hundreds of granite outcroppings worthy of a climber's attention, only a fraction have been climbed. The following is only a sampling of some of the areas frequented by local climbers. This guide is far from exhaustive and is obviously brief. There are no route descriptions or guarantees that you won't get lost or hurt. First ascents are not a phenomenon of the past, so don't let this guide limit you.
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CRAGS in the immediate Bear Valley (BV) area are usually shorter than a standard rope length, so don't expect many hanging belays. For big granite, head to Calaveras Dome 1.5 hrs northwest via 4x4 roads.
Box Canyon may be one of the best beginner/intermediate crags in the Sierra. The 70-100 foot climbs are characterized by moderate crack and face climbing ranging from 5.5-5.9. A few harder testpieces can also be found. With the exception of the main line, natural gear is required to set anchors. Approach: Park at the dirt pullout 0.4 mi. east of the BV junction. Cross the stream and follow a vague trail downstream. Shortly before the creek jogs westward follow the foot trail left into the forest. The main cliff is on your left.
Spicer Road Crags are scattered along the northeast side of the Spicer Reservoir Road. A few of the more notable features are as follows (all mileage are from the Spicer Res. Road/Hwy. 4 junction): 0.8 mi. a few 30 ft. overhanging direct aid problems are visible (A2-3); 2.3 mi. takes you near a set of twin cracks (5.10); and 2.4 mi. brings you to a west facing buttress with two cracks (5.9-10).
Spicer Terraces, with its 3 main tiers of mostly steep cracks ranging from 5.7-5.?, offers a good burning pump to most any climber. From classic stemming problems on Venus Flytrap (5.9) to powerful gymnastic moves on Gastric Disaster (5.11+), the numerous 40-60 foot climbs will keep you busy all day. Natural protection to 3.5" is needed to set some anchors. Approach: Scenic ó Park at the end of the Spicer Road below the dam. Walk across the bridge and follow downstream. After crossing the spillway take a sharp left and parallel it until reaching the first large boulder. Follow a climbers' trail to your right uphill for 5-10 minutes. After crisscrossing a stream bed the trail deposits you at the west end of the lower tier. Industrial ó Park at the top of the dam and take the dirt road across the spillway to the dynamite wall (sporting 2 bolted top ropes) courtesy of the damn engineers. The majority of the climbing can be found a short distance above and beyond.
BOULDERING is a specialty of the area. Head off in just about any directions and have a blast. Here's a few:
School House Boulders offers moderate slab problems to more challenging edging and pockets. Either climb the hill behind the Community Center in BV or park at the Box Canyon pullout and walk 100 yds. west down Hwy. 4 until adjacent with the large perched boulder. Venture north staying slightly west of the ridge line.
Tamarack Boulders is a climbers playground offering moderate to difficult crack and face climbing. Beware of the Scary Monster . Park at the Hwy. 4/Salt Springs Rd junc. 2.3 mi. west of BV and follow the slabs uphill to the obvious boulders. Most problems can be found south of the power lines.
Hells Kitchen is an area favorite with steep, clean climbing. Don't be fooled by the lazy approach. The Kitchen is hot and is home to the original Scary Monster. Park at the Hells Kitchen vista point 3.5 mi. west of the BV junction and follow the tourist foot trail. Most boulders are within a stone's throw of the car.
Big Meadow has two large boulders, one w/a bolted top rope anchor. Look for the dynamic problem with a running start on the west end of the big one. Park at the Big Meadow Picnic Area, head south crossing the creek, then bear right. Keep your eyes peeled for the native American grinding stones.
Stanislaus River Boulders offer steep face climbing unlike any other in the region. Walk 15 min. downstream from the Stan. Riv. Campground (2.8 mi. down the Spicer Rd) until reaching the waterslide.
This Bear Valley Rock Climbing sampler is brought to you by Mountain Adventure Seminars. We specialize in unique mountain adventures in California and abroad. Full, half, and multiple day rock climbing classes are available for individuals, groups, and families. Custom tailored programs including climbing, mountain biking, hiking, skiing, and kayaking are also available. For more detailed information please feel free to contact us. If you are looking for more free rock climbing information it is best to call us on your dime at (209) 753-6556. Thank you.
Mountain Adventure Seminars
PO Box 5102 , Bear Valley, CA 95223
ph/fax: (800) 36-CLIMB
ph: (209) 753-6556
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